Bentley Fragrances Pty Ltd & Charles of the Ritz Group Ltd v Simes Australia Pty Ltd [1981] FCA 27
Federal Court of Australia
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27 /
IN THE FEDERAL COURT OF AUSTRALIA
NEw SOUTH WALES DISTRICT REGISTRY No. G17 of 1981
GENERAL DIVISION )
Between
BENTLEY FRAGRANCES PTY.LIMITED
and CHARL&S OF THE RITZ GROUP
LiMiTsb—s—CSsSOSSSCSCtit«~'s
Applicants
and
SIMES AUSTRALIA PTY. LIMITED
Respondent
CORAM: SHEPPARD J. 16 MARCH, 1981
JUDGMENT
(On application for interlocutory relief)
This is an application for interlocutory relief. The
applicants seek to restrain until the final hearing of the
proceedings the marketing ty the respondent of a range of
perfumes and associated products known as Orient. The
second applicant, which 1s incorporated in the state of
Delaware in the United Stetes of America, carries on business
as a manufacturer, marketer and distributor of fragrances,
cosmetics and toiletries, including those sold under the
trade name Yves Saint Laurent. Amongst tne second
applicant's products is a range of products sold uncer
the brand name Opium, This range includes Opium eau de
toilette, concentrate perfumes, dusting powders, soaps,
bath o1l1s and body creams. The eau de toilette and
perfumes are made up from essential oils produced in France
and purchased by the first applicant from a related French
company, Parfums Yves St.Laurent S.A. Both these perfume
products were first sold in Europe in 1977 and were intro-
duced into the United States market in 1978. They were
first sold in Australia in September 1978. The concentrate
is sold in three sizes of containers, and the eau de
toilette is sold in five sizes. Shortly after the intro-
duction into the Australian merket of the Opium perfume
products, the other Cpium products (dusting powder, soap,
bath 011 anda body cream) were introduced.
From the time Opium perfume products were introduced
into the Australian market in September 1978 until the end
of November 1980, total retail sales of the srocucts in
Australia amounted to about $2,700,000. Total retail sales
in Australia of all Opium products up to tne end of November
1980 amounted to about $2,900,000. The Opium brand of
products is sold in 99 countries, and total retail sales
worldwide between the time of introduction of the products
and the end of November 1980 amounted to about »US180,C00,0CC,
The first applicant is a company incorporated in
Australia. It 1s the distributor for the second applicant's
products in Australie. Opium perfumes are sold in all
States of Australia except Queensland, There have been
no sales in Queensland because the Department of Health
in that State has notified the first applicant that the
department would regard sale of the products as being in
contravention of the Health Acts 1937-1976,
The first apolicant sells Opium brand products to
retailers throughout Australia. At present there are
about 435 retail outlets selling. Of these outlets, 27
are duty-free stores, 285 are pharmacies, 55 are perfumery
stores and 68 are department stores. There are 175 outlets
in New South Wales, 183 in Victoria and Tasmania, 10 in
South Australia and 36 1n Wéstern Australia.
Opium brand perfumes have been extensively promoted
to the public in Australia, In the August 1978 issue of
Vogue magazine there was a four page advertisement for
Opium perfumes. Since then the advertising for ,Cpium
perfumes has included numbers of full page and couble page
advertisements in magazines intended to be read principally
by women. The magazines are in the main Vogue, Cosmopolitan
and Mode, The most recent advertisement is that appearing
in the issue of Cosmopolitan for Decenber 1980, In total,
the expenditure on magazine advertising has been in
excess of $48,C00. Total expenditure on promotion,
including media advertising, displays and public
relations, has been in the order of $120,000.
The respondent 1S a company incorporated in South
Australia. It has produced several ranges of perfumes
and toiletries. One of its directors is Mr. H. J. Ninio,
who is a registered pharmacist. Mr. Ninio and one other
shareholder hold all the issued capital, botn in the
respondent and in another company, Westab Pty. Limited,
which has for many years conducted the business of a
specialist perfume and toiletries retailer in Adelaide.
In 1979, that is after the Opium range of products
had become established on the Australian market, the
respondent, through Mr. Nano, decided to launch a new
range of products, As a result of that decision, the
respondent 1s about to launch on to the market a range of
perfumes anj associated products known as Crient. The
applicants learned of the respondent's intention from a
brochure, which came to their attention 1n February and
which had been circulated to retail stores in Victoria,
New South Wales anc Gueensland, and from an advertisenent
in the March 1981 issue of Pharmacy Trade, a magazine
circulated to pharmacies and companies which suoply them.
Both the brochure and the advertisement showed
coloured pictures of boxes and bottles containing the
Orient products. They also said that there was to be
su stantial advertising in certain women's magazines,
including Cosmopolitan, commencing in May 1981 and con-
tinuing each month until the end of the year. Of the
product, the brochure said:
"The 'Orient' perfume ... a special place in
the market.
"Orient' is the culmination of extensive
research commissioned by Simes into the market
needs and attitudes of the Australian female
and her perfume. Interestingly enough, this
research highlighted the need for a product that
followed the trend instigated by the great
fragrance creators of our time ... tnat 1S, a
French fragrance with a subtle hint of Orient.
Furthermore, this perfume had to be within the
reach of the widest market segment price-wiSe ...
and the fragrance had to be long-lasting. You
could call it a 'Super Fragrance'. We call it
'Orient'. We packaged 1t to capture an unstint-
ang look of quality. Then we priced it to .
capture the attention of the thraftiest of buyers."
A facsimile of one of tne proposed advertiserents to
be placed in the magazines to which I have referred said:
" 'Orient' - It was created to be cifferent,
born to capture the full richness and mystery
of life that is the East."
In addition to the brochure ana the advertisement in
Pharmacy Trade, there have been placed in evidence further
advertising material ana a display case containing the
range of Orient products.
As earlicr mentioned, there had been commenced in 1978
an extensive promotion of the applicants' Opium range
of products. This had empnasised the oriental character
of the product. Thus in a large advertisement published
in the August 1978 issue of Vogue magazine at the beginning
of the Opium promotion, the following appeared:
"Captured from the Orient - Opium perfume is a
rich and spicy composition of Jasmine, Myrrh,
Coriander, Opopanax, Benjamin from Siam and
other intriguing aromas, woven into the most
sensual, mysterious and smouldering perfume ever
to come from tne creative genius of Yves St
Laurent."
Counsel for the applicants submitted additionally that the
name "Opium" itself implied a connection witn the East and
its mysteries.
Each of the products was said to be a French perfume.
Each of the containers of the Opium range of products tears
the words, "made in France", as well as the name Yves St
Laurent. The respondent's product is described as a French
fragrance with a hint of the Orient. The Crient product
packages bear the words, "Parfums Déco - Paris". That 1s/business
nane registered in South Australia and intended te be reristered
in France, but there 1s nothing on the container to indicate
that this 1s so. Clearly, ordinary people would understand
that the product was in some way of French origin.
It is now necessary to say something of the packeging
of each product. Most of the packaging 1s 1n bottles or
other containers which are themselves encased in
cardboard boxes. The predominat colour of the Opium
boxes is brown, Hach box has a black top ana bottom
and a distinct black band of a centimetre or less
surrounding its top and bottom edges. Each of the
brown faces is divided by three black-edged, narrow gold
bands. Upon the brown faces are also portrayed golden
leaves. The name Opium appears in gold on the centre
of one of the brown faces of each box. The name Yves
St Laurent appears also in gold on the lower black
surround of each. There 1S other notation on each, but
it 1s not distinctive and it 1s not necessary to refer
to it.
The predominant colour of the Orient boxes 18 red,
Like the Opium boxes they have black tops and bottoms end
black surrounds at their top and bottom, They co not
have gold bands on the red background, but there are gold
bands which border the black edges of the red faces. On
each red face are painted golden leaves. The Jeeves are
of a different snape from those on the Opium boxes. The
gold is a somewhat different shade of gold. Upon each of
the Orient boxes 1s the word "Orient" written in ,;sold in
the centre of one of the red faces, Wratten in gold on
the bottom black edging are the words "Parfums Déco - Paris"
As in the case of the Opium boxes, there is other
notation on each to which it 1s unnecessary to refer.
Each product can be displayed in a specially rade
display stand. These are designed to hold each product
in the range and could be used to display prominently
the articles in a retail shop vhere they were sold. From
a distance one's impression is of a red and gold display
in the case of the Orient stand, and a brown and gold
display in the case of the Opium stand. The differences
which there are in the shape of the leaves and the shades
of gold which have been used tend to be obscured. One
is also conscious of the black edging, although in the
case of the Orient products, the display stand itself
obscures the lower black surround. Tne names Opium and
Orzrent are prominently displayed on each stand.
Mr. Ninio was cross-examined to suggest thet the
respondent had deliberately imitated the get-up of the
applicants' product, He denied this, but he did agree
that there was some resemblance between the two packages
and said that this nad been perceived before it was
decided to adopt the packaging which has been selected.
Other suggested forms of packaging were discarded, Mr.
Ninio said that of all the forms of packagin; which had
been considered, he thought that the one selected was
closest to that of the Opium products which he knew had
been very successful. He was askea why he chose one
wnich was close at all. He said:
"Well, we honestly believed that there
was no real comparison. We thought
that 1t was quite distinct and quite
different."
I express no final view on the veracity of that evidence,
but for the purposes of this application for interlocutory
relief I think 1 should proceed on the assumption that it
is correct. There was argument as to the relevance of
evidence which would tend to show a conscious intention
to imitate. It 1s not appropriate in an interlocutory
application to come tc any final conclusion about the
significance which such evidence could have. In the light
of the evidence given by Mr. Ninio, 1t can in any event
play no part in the outcome of the proceedings. I should
assume therefore, without my decision having any effect
for the final hearing, that there was no conscious decision
to imitate or copy the Opium get-up.
I should next mention that evidence was led on benalf
of the respondent that the Orient range of products was
intended to sell in a different section of the market from
that in which the Opium products are sold. In paragraph 6
of his affidavit Mr. Ninio said:
"Within the Australian perfumery market there
are three distinct sub-markets catered for by
the following categories of market:
(a) 'Premium' or 'haute couture' brands selling
at retail unit prices generally in excess
of 320;
(b) Products specifically comprising those
products by the Avon group, marketed by
door to door selling;
(c) A group of products commonly referred to in
the trade as 'life-style fragrances' selling
at retail unit prices less than 210."
Mr. Ninio's evidence was that tne Opium renge of
products was of premium quality whilst the Orient renge
was not. It was in the life-style category. If this
evidence were accepted, one would be inclined to conclude
that there was less likelihood of deception because the
two products would not be in competition with one another.
However, I do not accept the evidence, Amongst the
documents produced by the respondent pursuant to a notice
to produce was e document prepared in its office for tne
company whicn had designed its packaging. Amongst other
tnings, the document said:
"All packaging and POS material to be as
close as economically feasible to the best
quality available from competitive perfumes
on the market place, 1.e. French >rends."
10.
In relation to that document Mr. Ninio gave the
following evidence:
Mihat is the object of packaging it in that
way? (That is, 1n the way proposed in the
document to which I have gust referred)
--- The inference 1s that 1t should be packaged
in a good-looking container end gooa-looking
packaging.
In as good a looking package as, within reason,
the high quality French perfume? ---- That 15s
correct.
Would you please tell me why, what 1s the
object of doing that, where does it lead to?
---- Sales.
On what basis?----- Appearance and packaging.
Your customers are not buying the vackaging,
they are buying what 1s inside? ---- Yes.
Is not the object to make them think that they
are getting something which, if not as good as,
is nearly as good as tne high quality product?
---- Yes, I suppose that would be right.
So to that extent you are in competition with
a high quality product such as this Opium? ~---To
that extent, yes."
It 1s true that the Orient rang2 will be marketed at
prices substantially less than those at which the Opium
range of products sells. But the evidence to whicn i
have referred establishes, in my opinion, tnat to an
appreciable extent the two products, if the Orient range
comes on to the market, will nevertheless be in competition.
Furthermore, Mr. Ninio had also given evidence to
the following effect:
"The perfume market had for many years been
divided, 1 suggest te you, betwecn ¥rench and
non-French perfumes, had it not? +... Yes.
ll.
"And French being the expensive, prestigious
perfumes, 1s that correct? --- That 1s correct.
And the others being less prestigious and not
commancing such a premium? --- That 1s right."
Notwithstanding that evidence, and Mr. Ninio's
affidavit, to which I have earlier referred, the fact
remains that the Orient range will be marketed as a
French perfume. So much is clear from the name Parfums
Déco-Paris which appears on each of the boxes, and from
the advertising material which described the product as
"a French fragrance with a subtle hint of Orient", For
the purposes of this application 1 conclude tnat the two
products are likely to be in competition with one another,
That being a finding in an interlocutory application, it
is not a finding intended to band the court when it comes
to consider the matter on the final hearing.
The remaining evidentiary matter to wnich I should
refer is that 1t was the packaging alone which was relied
upon by the applacant. It was not the quality or essential
characteristics of the two products whicn were in question.
It seemec to be assumed that purchases would be on the
basis of appearance, notwithstanding that there was evidence
that many purchasers of perfume try it on before deciding
to buy.
For the relief whicn they claim, the coplicants rely
12.
upon threatened breaches of s.52 of the Trade Practices
Act 1974 and upon passing off. For the moment I shall
put passing off on one side. Section 52(1) of the Trade
Practices Act provides:
"fA corporation shall not in trade or
commerce engage in conduct that is mis-
leading or deceptive or that is likely
to mislead or deceive."
In support of their case, based upon threatened
breaches of the section, the applicant ~elied, both
alternatively and cumulatively, upon the following propos-
itions:
(a} Merbers of the public or significant sections
of the public will te misled or deceived into
believing that the two products are the same.
(>) Members of the public or significant sections
of 21t will be misled or deceived into believing
tnat the two products originate frem the same
trade source, or have a business connection with
the same source, or that the Orient product has
the sponsorship of the applicants.
The first of these contentions was not strongly pressed
although it was said that where the Orient range was the
only product sold, either because it was sold in a section
of a store away fron that where the Opium range was sold or
13.
because the Opium range was not stocked, there would be
likely to be significant confusion and thus deception.
However, it was the second proposition which was the
most strongly relied upon. Importantly 1t was said that
members of the public would be deceived into thinkang that
Orient was a cheaper version of the Opium product.
In support of their submission the applicants relied
upon the following matters of detail:
(a)
(bo)
(c)
(d)
(e)
Both products go or will go to the public
as French perfumes.
Both are also oriental fragrances.
Tne names Opium and Orient are similar. Both
commence with the letter 0. Both are short
three syllable words,
Both have an Eastern theme,
The packaging has similar floral motifs against
a dark coloured background, 1n the one case red
and in thebther brown, colours which are of the
same group. Both have black edging on the top
and bottom. Some of the advertising showed the
red as almost brown. That 1s true only of the
facsimile magazine page shown in tne Pharmacy
Trade magazine.
14,
(f) The bottles, some of which were on display
were of similar size and design.
(g) Nothing on the Orient packaging indicated
the name of the manufacturer or the source
from which the goods have come. The name
Parfums Deco-Paris was not necessarily an
indication of this. It would not readily
occur to one that 1t was a registered business
name,
(h) The Orient products were to be sold in the
same market as the Cpium products.
Counsel for the applicants relied upon the accumulation
of all these factors. He acknowledged that 1t was the
totality of the impression conveyed by the get-up looked at
overall, which was the critical consideration, Perhaps
because the Orient product is not yet on the market, or
perhaps for other reasons, there was not availaole evidence
of the kind not uncommonly called in these cases from
members of the public, who might say that they were or were
not misled, deceived or confused by the appearence of the
Orient get-up. Such evidence 1s usually helpful. In this
case I must do the best I can without it. I must bring to
bear upon the material question to be decided, namely whether
the applicants have made out a prive facie case, a judgment
15.
on whether members of the public will be misled or
deceived or will be likely to be misled or deceived,
when the Orient range of products comes on to the
market, into thinking either that the products are the
same as those in the Opium range, or come from the same
source - using that expression compendiously to embrace
all the matters relied on by the applicants in that
regard.
In coming to a conclusion I must bear in mind that
this is an interlocutory application and not a final
hearing. The applicants must demonstrate that if
the evidence remains as 1t 1s they will probably succeed,
In that context, the word "probably" is not used in the
sense of more probably than not but in the sense of
there being, upon the basis of the evidence in the
interlocutory proceedings, a significant or real question
to be tried. On the other hand, so 1t seems to me, I
should also bear in mind that it 1s unlikely there will
be, upon a final hearing of the matter, much adéitional
evidence which will bear directly on the ultimate question
to be decided. The issues of conscious imitation and
market remain to be decided. However, in the end it will
be a question of assessing, upon the basis of the appear-
ance of the two products, the likelihood of menbers of
the public being misled or deceived. I should add that
16.
if interlocutory relief were grarited 1t would seem
unlikely that any of the user or potential user evidence
called in some of these cases would be available. The
product could not be released on to the market at least
before the final hearing had concluded.
In relation to the specific matters relied on by
the applicants there can be no question but that tne
matters stated in the various paragraphs are all proper
to be taken into account, Nor can there be any cuestion
as to the correctness of wnat tne applicants assert in
each of those paragraphs. Eacn is factually correct.
However, despite the similarities the differences remein,.
The packages to be used and their portrayal in most of the
advertising material are a distinct red. Those of tne
Opium range are a distinct brown. The boxes are also
different because the shapes of the leaves ar: the two
shades of gold are far from being identical. The Orient
boxes do not have gold bands except at the top and bottom
edges. The names Opium and Orient are not the same.
Counsel for the applicants rightly cautioned me egainst
allowing the fact that the case has been befcre me for a
week or so to concentrate my attention too mucn on the
dissimilarities and away from the overall effect of tne
packeging on the minds of customers and potential customers
un the environment of retail stores, be tney pharmacies or
17.
otherwise. I have endeavoured to heed that warning.
The differences nevertheless are there and in my view
make the products distinct. Red and brown may te
from the same group of colours but they are not the
same. The words "Opium" and "Orient" may be short,
three syllable words which may to some minds congure
up some of the mystery of the East, although whether
Opium has the same connotation as Orient in this respect
I am not sure, But the words are different words.
Notwithstanding the similarities, the differences which
exist are in my view marked. If one looks at the
products individually as by picking un two packages,
those differences are readily perceived. If one locks
at the display stands from a cistance, althouzh it is true
that the leaves appear mucn the same and the ditferences
in tne two shades of gold are not distinct, the differences
are nevertheless there, brousht about tainly in my opinion
by the names of the two products ana the distinct red
colour on the one hand and tne distinct brown colour on
the other.
In saying whet I have I bear in mind tnat customers
may not always have the benefit of being able to contrast
the two. That 1s an important factor to rementer. But,
not overlooking it, I have to decide the matter on the
overall impression I have of tne effect or the likely effect
18,
of the two products on the mind of the potential
customer. In this respect I think it appropriate
to mention that wnen the two products were first
shown to ne in chambers on the application which was
made for ex parte relief on 6 March last, it dic not
then occur to me that the case was a clear one. My
initial and unaided impression at that time was that
the cnance of confusion was slight. Thet was one
reason why I refused the ex parte relief which was
then sought.
Having reflected on the matter for two or three
days since I reserved my decision, I have reached the
clear conclusion that the applicants have not, as tne
evidence now stands, establishea a probability of success
in the sense in which that expression is used in the
cases, I do not think potential customers will ve vrisled
into thinking that the products are the same, nor do I
consider tnat customers will thinx they come from the
same source,
I have not until now considered the case made by the
applicants based on passing off. It raises somewhat
different considerations, but the essential matter for
consideration is very much the same as 1t 1s under the
19.
Trade Practices Act. No separate argument based on
passing off was addressed to me. It follows that I
do not consider that the applicants have made out a
case of threatened passing off any more than they have
made out a case of threatened breaches of the Trade
Practices Act.
My conclusions make it unnecessary for me to con-
sider the balance of convenience. The evidence concern-
ing it was not in contest and it appears cleerly and
concisely in the affidavits, the exhibits and the oral
evidence, I do not need to make findings on 1t. For
the reasons I have given, the application for interlocutory
relief is refused.
(There ensued discussion with counsel concerning
costs and directions).
The formal orders I make are as follows: Tne
application for interlocutory relief 1s refused. The
costs of the motion will be reservec to the hearing. I
direct the applicants to file their statement of claim on
or before 20 March. I direct the respondent to file its
defence on or before 27 March. Lists of documents are
to be exchanged on or before 3 April. Inspection is to
20.
take place forthwith, Any interrogatories by either
party are to be served by 22 April and answered by
6 May. The matter will be mentioned on 27 March next
at 9.30 for further directions, including a date for
hearing. Exhibits to be returned.
| certify that this end the 20 prececing
pages era a true copy of the reasons for
judgment here cf The Hor.curable
* 4
Mr Justice Shopper d. . a4 4st
Associate
pated I Manche 145
al.